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When curating a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate well-known award-winning establishments. But, situated prominently among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Shocking Honour

This little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. This honour has made the owners utterly shocked.

“I’m completely astonished,” states a proprietor, referring to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their small shop achieving such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery more than excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent texture.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can start at many times that amount.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this gastronomic achievement.